Just ahead of me, I see the Elgin Bridge. Then, it was just a wooden drawbridge known as Presentment Bridge. It’s been in existence for 189 years (since 1822). Sometimes, I feel our love feels like that. It feels like I’ve loved you in my past life and no matter who I am, was or will become, I’ll continue to love you for as long as I live.
Now, as I walk along Coleman Bridge, it reminds me of how much things have changed. In 1986, the old iron bridge was replaced by the current concrete one. We used to just take in the sights as the bridge allowed vehicles to pass through; the rhythm of the busy streets resonating with the beat of my heart whenever our eyes met.
As we listened to the many tales, we would chomp down on our favourite pineapple snack. Remember how we used to sneak into the pineapple factory and dare each other to steal the fruits under the nose of the very fierce manager? Once, we got caught and I took your hand before running for our dear lives. That was the first time I held your hand. I couldn't help but smile as we made our escape.
Now, it has transformed into an area filled with restaurants and bars. It’s been renamed The Cannery, in memory of the pineapple factories. I am now sitting in one of the many quaint cafes located in one of the replicas at the Whampoa Ice House, sipping on pineapple juice and reminiscing.
How can I forget the Chinese mansion, which we used to gaze at from outside, that was well-furnished with the most luxurious furniture we had ever seen, befitting only of the wealthy? And how we imagined ourselves to be the owners living inside? I made the promise to you that I would work hard to build a perfect house, bigger and grander that the one that laid before us. I suppose that was a promise I failed to keep. It is no longer a Chinese mansion but what is now known as the River House, which shares its compound with a restaurant called the Forbidden City.
Oh! And remember Tan Hao Ang, the guy that sells kacang puteh outside the cinema? He used to say that his ancestor owned the River House down in Clarke Quay but we never knew what he was talking about. I found the place and it has been converted into a restaurant. I also found out that it used to be a warehouse in the 1880s constructed by a wealthy Chinese merchant, Tan Yeok Nee. It turns out that in Singapore, there are only 2 of such Chinese traditional houses left. Bet you did not know that!
Coolie Pants:
As we walked back home together and just talked along Boat Quay, we could see coolies, toiling and sweating in the unbearable heat just to eke out a decent living.
Even after 5 decades, it is hard to forget the unbearable stench of the infamous dirty waters (since I stayed near the river). Now the scenario has totally changed. People no longer shun this place, instead they are drawn to the picturesque and breezy area, a setting that attracts both locals and tourists.
Former Gambier & Pepper Building and former Rubber Trade HQ
The eyes painted on the bows of the bumboats, that scared you so much, still remain in place. I remember you said it felt like someone was perpetually watching you; and so I always made it a point to walk on the side of the river to make you feel secure.
I have found out the purpose of the eyes from one of the friendly boatmen. Some were aimed at distinguishing the boats from rivals, several used it to indicate if the boat was overloaded, and a few painted them merely for decorative purposes. Most believed that the eyes represented Ma Zu's, the patron deity of the sailors, which helped to 'see' the direction the boat was heading and to forewarn sailors of the dangers that lurked ahead. Whereas for me, I used it as an excuse to walk close to you, to make you feel protected.
I wandered around and saw this unique mosque, named Masjid Moulana. It is the only underground mosque in Singapore and was officially opened in 1996. I started thinking of you again and I am sure you would bring me to this cool mosque if you are around. Suddenly, I had the urge to go in, hoping to find you there. However, I remember you telling me not to enter a religious site if I was inappropriately dressed. And I was, so I resumed my route.
Sir Stamford Raffles had played an integral part in the development of Singapore - where it was transformed from a fishing village to a thriving port (as it has been repeated ad nauseam in textbooks these days). Many years have gone by, and yet many features of the Raffles' Town Plan that were present are still evident today. For instance, Raffles' Place remains the heart of the Central Business District, where all the commercial and office buildings are concentrated at. Also, the practice of allocating various ethnics groups to different segments of Singapore has been so entrenched that a particular racial group is still associated with the respective areas.
The irony is that even with the town plan, fate brought us together despite the different lives we were leading, and our love being so strong was able to cross the boundaries. I will always remember the day when my eyes set upon yours. Yet, I wonder if we were born later into this era, would our paths have crossed? If so, I wish that we will meet just this one more time.
Across the road now stands a statue of a Merlion as a fountain. The Merlion is the icon for our tourism industry. It has the head of a lion and the body of a fish. The entire area is named the Merlion Park and it has a very nice view. I can see the two durians called the Esplanade (an arts hub). I am sure that if this place existed back then, we would have spent most of our time here, viewing the exhibitions held in the hub.
How about the Fullerton Waterboat House which was a building used to regulate habour activities in the 19th century? During our time, it provided fresh water for incoming ships in the regional trade. Now, it still supplies water but at a high cost. It has become a nice, classy restaurant managed by the Fullerton Hotel (explaining the cost) but the elegant stone structure with a gently curved facade that is reminiscent of the British architecture still remains.
As I made my way back to ACM, I remember my most memorable moment of us - when we used to sneak onto the back of the bumboats in order to get a ride along the Singapore River. There was once, which was also the last time we did it, we got caught and the furious boatman scolded us till you cried. That was when I decided never to do anything that would leave you in tears.
But I still made you cry when we parted. I hope in your heart, I’ve not been replaced like these places have been. With nothing left to remember us by, what we were, what we had, nothing but memories that echo of what once was.
Reflections of yesterday are fast disappearing. But you never will because I will always hold you dear, deep in my heart.